Spring Flower

Planning your spring wardrobe

I know it’s hard to think about spring when the rain is lashing against your windows and the wind is buffeting against your conservatory but it might just put you in a better mood if you do.

Daffodils and crocuses are already starting to emerge and sooner or later you need to be turning to your wardrobe to see what you’ve got available and what new garments you may need to invest in.

The changes you make at the start of spring can be fairly subtle. There may still be a nip in the air so rather than make changes in cloth at this stage you should be looking at colours. The deep dark colours of winter can start changing to the gentler hues of greens, mid-blues, and lighter greys. Waistcoats can still be worn and you may want to invest in a lightweight coat to keep the chill out.

As the temperature creeps up you can gradually put away your heavy wool suits and move to lighter flannels, cavalry twills and milled worsteds. Every man’s wardrobe should contain a lightweight suit and sports jacket that will serve them for the spring season and moving to more pastel colours such as beige, tan and ivory are ideal for this time of year.

For a more casual look then a smart pair of chinos, a soft and lightweight blazer, a pale relaxed shirt and a silk pocket handkerchief cuts a fine sartorial figure. For the office, then light grey, mid blue or beige two piece suits in soft cotton or light wool will set the tone perfectly.

Cloths that allow the air to circulate through them are a good choice for spring so wool-linen blends or silk blends may be a good addition to your wardrobe. Now is a good time to look at your spring wardrobe and see if it fits the bill. What have you got planned for spring? Are you taking a short break? Will you be going to a sporting event? Plan your spring wardrobe now so that you can look sharp for the season.

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How to choose an interview suit

Deciding what to wear for a job interview poses a challenge for many. It’s on a par with

making sure you’ve researched the company sufficiently and having answers ready for those

curveball questions.

Why it’s important to choose the right suit

You only have a few seconds to make a great first impression when meeting someone for the

first time. It’s human instinct to judge people on their appearance. So it’s all the more

important when attending an interview that you don’t start being adventurous with your

wardrobe or make a fashion faux pas. Before you start telling them about yourself and

highlighting your skills, knowledge and suitability for the role, your clothing plays a crucial role

in determining whether the interviewer/s will form a positive or negative opinion of you.

The psychological benefits

Dressing well increases your confidence and professionalism, especially for a job interview.

Studies have shown that formal attire enhances your thought processes, frame of mind and

makes you feel more authoritative. If you look great, you’ll feel great – and there’s a much

higher chance of being successful.

How to choose the winning suit

For a formal interview, you should aim to dress a level above what you would usually wear for

work, which obviously includes the role you’re being interviewed for. As you don’t want to look

over-dressed or fussy, a classic cut is the best option – this flawless style has been first

choice for many years and doesn’t change depending on the fashion trends that season.

It may seem easier to buy a ready-made suit, but this might not offer the best in terms of

quality, style of cut, durability or even price. Mass produced clothing doesn’t fit every

customer correctly. They are supposed to fit a ‘standard’ person, but this doesn’t always apply

as everyone’s size and shape is different. However, if you have to select this option, try to find

a seller/store that matches your figure the best. You can then use the services of a tailor to

make the alterations needed to make sure it fits you properly.

For the perfect silhouette and to accommodate individual requirements, the only choice is a

custom-made suit. This will ensure a perfect fit, a better shape to the chest, and eliminates

such problems as too long or short trousers or jacket sleeves, for example. It will be high

quality, comfortable and have much more of a personal feel.

Design

Trends come and go, but a classic suit never goes out of fashion. It is the simplest design

without the quirky details on-trend at that particular time. This usually means a single-

breasted two-piece suit with a two- or three-button cut (a three-button jacket looks better on

taller men), a notched lapel, and a single or twin back vent.

Fabric

It is very important to choose the right cloth for your suit. For many it can seem an impossible

task because of the huge selection of various fabrics on the market. Wool or wool blends

(with a synthetic fabric) are acceptable and suit all seasons.

Some blends help to keep the cost of a suit down, but they have more disadvantages than

advantages – they breathe less and don’t last as long. In most cases, they look very cheap

and will be unacceptable for formal occasions.

Colour

The most appropriate colours, and considered neutral for a job interview, are dark colours

such as navy blue or charcoal. If you want to wear black, I recommend you choose a fabric

with a pattern, such as thin pinstripes.

It’s always best to opt for a plain white or light pastel shirt with a non-patterned, single-

coloured tie. Avoid bright colours on ties as they can be a distraction for the interviewer. The

same applies to your socks because, yes, the interviewer will notice. Ideally, the tie should

complement the whole look and match the shirt as well as the suit.

How The Bespoke Tailor can help

With many years’ experience in the UK menswear and tailoring industry, I travel all over the

UK providing a bespoke service and a ‘Savile Row’ experience direct to my clients at their

office, home or other convenient location. I get to the heart of what my customers need and

work with them closely to design and create personalised suits and garments. Please contact

me on 07968 438717 or email adrian@thebespoketailor.co.uk if you would like to find out

more or to arrange a consultation.

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Prince Philip – One Of The Best Dressed Men Of 2015

Whatever your thoughts about the Royals and Prince Philip in particular, you have to hand it to the grand old Duke of Edinburgh on the sartorial stakes.

At 94 years of age, the Duke of Edinburgh has just been voted 12th in GQ magazine’s top 50 best dressed men in Britain of 2015, narrowly behind Benedict Cumberbatch and Harry Styles and well ahead of his grandchildren William and Harry.

This is not the first time that Prince Philip has made the list. He was ranked a couple of years ago as 26th and praise such as ‘underrated tweedy genius’ ‘time-honoured style’ and ‘services to classic British tailoring’ have been heaped upon him by those in the industry.

I can’t help but feel a little bit pleased about this vindication of the classic tailored look and fine British tailoring that the Prince upholds. Prince Philip has all his suits made by renowned tailor John Kent and he’s well known for having his existing garments altered and updated to reflect a more modern look.

Patrick Grant, the Savile Row tailor, has previously commented that Prince Philip has “always favoured a simple suit made from heavyweight British cloths: tough twills and twist worsted – never excessively fitted, and always well balanced”.

John Ray, creative director of Dunhill, said, “The Duke of Edinburgh embodies duty and decorum and comes across effortlessly in the way he dresses. He is always British, masculine and appropriate for his role.”

It just goes to show that individual style has nothing to do with age or fashion. Classic British tailoring bears the hallmark of what being well-dressed is all about and is the envy of the world. Order books from overseas clients have never been fuller for British tailors and in a fashion industry that is dominated by mass production and synthetic fabrics, classic British tailoring using the finest woven cloth in the world is in huge demand across the globe. Long may it continue!

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Top 3 tips for the Christmas party season

So, the Christmas party season is with us again and over the next couple of weeks men up and down the country will be going to office parties and social events wondering what to wear. As longs as the event is not black tie, then you can’t go wrong with these tips:

1. Go Classic – Nothing wrong with going classic. Dark suit, crisp white shirt and silk tie will never let you down but you could try and mix it up a bit by layering different patterns and textures, A nice wool suit, with sharp cotton shirt and an elegantly woven lightly patterned silk tie will help you look sartorially appropriate for the occasion. Don’t just stick on your work suit. Invest in something a bit sharper and slightly less traditional.

2. Go Denim – Now I don’t mean from head to toe. A smart pair of dark blue jeans, a tucked in collared shirt and contrasting blazer is a simple, elegant and sophisticated look. You can even go with lighter jeans or distressed jeans if you’re feeling particularly adventurous but this will work better if you wear them with a dark sports jacket or blazer to provide contrast.

3. Go Turtleneck – If you fancy looking a bit different, then go turtleneck. Turtlenecks are very much in this winter but it does help if you are more on the slim side. If you are a bit more portly then they have a tendency to ride and cling so it’s not the best look. Dark turtlenecks work best and they can make a nice change from wearing a shirt, Combined with a smart woollen suit and worn casually (never tucked in), you will cut a sharp figure at any party.

Now, if the event does say black tie, then that’s exactly what it means. Don’t turn up in a blue or light grey suit. A classic tuxedo is ideal but if you don’t have one and you haven’t got time to get one, then a black suit, crisp white shirt, dark tie and pocket square is the order of the day.

Season’s greetings, and whatever you’re wearing, make the right impact!

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Suiting up for the office Christmas party

If you regularly wear a suit to work then you may think the office Christmas party is a time to dress down and wear what you like. This is not a good idea. The office party, to a certain extent, is just like any other office event except it has more profile. This means that your boss is likely to be there, there’s a good chance that your boss’s boss will be there and there may even be some clients there so it’s still a time where presentation and impressions count.

Don’t wear the same suit that you always wear to work. Instead, wear a suit that you wouldn’t normally wear…as long as it’s not a summer suit in a pale pastel colour. Navy, grey or black suits are best and, together with a crisp white shirt, you will cut a fine sartorial figure. You don’t want to blend into the crowd and by wearing a new suit or a suit your colleagues haven’t seen before; you will still make a good impact. Here are some other quick tips for suiting up for the office Christmas party:

  • Ties tend to be optional at Christmas parties but if you’re unsure, take one with you. You can always slip it on at the last moment if everybody else is wearing one.
  • Fight the temptation to wear a Christmas-themed tie or waistcoat. It’s okay to maybe have some tasteful festive cuff-links or tie clip but when it comes to being festive, subtlety is the key.
  • Accessorizing with a pocket square and a nice watch will give a classic finishing touch to your suit.
  • A lot of Christmas office parties start shortly after the working day so there’s not a lot of time to get ready. Plan your attire in advance so that you can immediately change and be ready for the event.

Another good reason for men getting suited up for the office Christmas party is showing some respect to your female colleagues. There’s a good chance that they will want to wear something more elegant and sparkly than their normal office attire and if you’re there in your jeans and shirt, they will be made to look and feel a bit awkward. Your female colleagues will prefer it if you’ve made an effort so getting suited up is just plain old-fashioned good manners!

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Why Jeremy Corbyn should try to reap the benefits of ‘enclothed cognition’

Loathed as I am to jump on the bandwagon, Jeremy Corbyn really does need to sort out his attire. Over the past couple of weeks the press have described Jeremy Corbyn’s wardrobe has Soviet-era, fifty shades of beige, and Oxfam-chic. With suits that look more jumble sale and charity shop rather than Savile Row, the predominantly right wing press have had a field day describing Jeremy Corbyn’s wardrobe and however shallow all these observations seem, there is a strong truth in what they’re saying. The fact is, we like our leaders to look like leaders and you can’t really do this when it looks like your fashion sense has been influenced by your old Geography teacher. However endearing it may look, when it comes to establishing a presence on the world stage, I’m afraid that look won’t cut it.

Throughout history, leaders who wanted to make the right impression have had to step up their wardrobe. Now before you think that this is something that a Tailor is bound to say I am stating the above based on scientific evidence. It’s called ‘enclothed cognition’ and no, I haven’t just made that phrase up. It’s a well researched scientific fact.

Enclothed cognition is how people perceive and react to you based on what you’re wearing. For example, a medical practitioner will wear a white lab coat for a reason. The reason is because it displays professionalism, scientific know-how and creates trust. When we see a doctor who is in a white uniform we immediately feel more secure and we believe we are going to be in safe hands.

There are lots of symbolic meanings to different types of clothes – uniforms or otherwise. The robes of a judge signify justice, the robes of a priest signify faith, the lycra of an athlete or cyclist signifies fitness and speed and you will not be surprised to hear me say that the cut of a tailor-made suit signifies power and importance!

When you put on a suit you think, feel and behave differently. If that suit has been tailored to your body shape then it feels like an extension of you and the status you hold. And it’s not just you who notices it. Others will react differently to you as well.

The clothes you wear undoubtedly exert an influence on the people around you but you have to be comfortable in your own skin to carry it off. If you’re the type of person who feels awkward and uncomfortable in a suit then you probably won’t be able to carry it off because others will see that you feel awkward as well. However, if you’re the type of person who is relatively comfortable getting suited up, then the better the suit is, the more you will raise your game.

So, in summary, if you want to feel the part, then you need to look the part. People still associate power and importance in the workplace as somebody in a suit, shirt and tie. Yes, I know there are notable exceptions like Mark Zuckerberg and Richard Branson who don’t get suited up, but on the whole, if you look at the attire of world leaders across the globe, they will be dressed in tailored suits and looking every inch the person in charge.

So what should Jeremy Corbyn do? If he suddenly started to get all Armani on us, the press would rip him to shreds but to be honest, if he could ride the storm, that would soon die down. If Jeremy Corbyn was to work with a decent tailor, then that tailor would know how to work with him to make him look more the part without diminishing his personality. In fact, it is part of a tailor’s job to ensure that a person’s individuality shines through when it comes to choosing their wardrobe.

If Jeremy Corbyn was to reap the benefits of ‘enclothed cognition’ then he might just get the response that he needs to be taken seriously…..by all corners of the press.

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Developing an individual style

I am often asked by my clients about what the latest fashion and styles are in men’s tailoring and my answer is always the same. Fashion and style are two different things. Fashion is what may be popular at this present moment but it doesn’t mean
that will always be the case. Style is something that you develop and stands the test of time. It’s something that you learn from experience and being comfortable in your own skin.

Every man’s wardrobe should contain the right mix of fashion and style items so that you can wear what’s on-trend now and pieces that are more individually tailored to you, your personality and what makes you unique. Fashion is about the here and now, style is about the detail. Developing your own style is something that a good tailor can help you with because a good tailor will take the time to get to know you, what your lifestyle is like and how your body shape will suit certain clothes.

When it comes to developing your own style there will normally be your casual-self and professional-self that you need tailoring for. A good tailor will know how you can mix and match pieces to create that smart-casual look that so often is the dress attire
for events and specific occasions. Knowing your own style can be more difficult than it seems and it often helps to work with a tailor who can work with you and introduce you to palettes of colours and accessories that you might not previously have considered.

As well as in the suit you’re wearing you can bring out your individual style in a tie, waistcoat, pocket square, cufflinks scarf or hat. Accessories are great when it comes to experimenting with style and finding a fit that suits your personality and makes you more distinctive.

Why not try a bit of experimenting yourself this autumn and see how you can develop your own individual style?

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Why should you dress up?

When Lewis Hamilton was recently refused entry into the Royal Box at Wimbledon for not being dressed smartly enough I have to admit to a certain smug smirk. As a tailor I sometimes get downhearted by the unmitigating slide towards casualness where nobody bothers to dress up anywhere. Visits to the theatre, fine dining restaurants, important social occasions etc should be an occasion to dress up and if you can’t dress up for the Royal Box at Wimbledon when will you dress up?!

Anyway, excuse the rant but it is a bit of a hobby horse of mine. Dressing up isn’t about one-upmanship or displaying wealth, it’s simply a case of having a sense of style and expressing yourself. Here are my five top reasons why every man should make the effort to dress up, especially if the occasion calls for it:

Self Confidence and Maturity – being smart shows that you are comfortable in your own skin and that you have the confidence to project your style. It will display to others that you are mature, motivated and have respect for the occasion.

Self Respect – you will feel good about yourself. The time, effort and pride you take in the way you look will boost your self image and it can’t fail to be noticed by others.

Positive Reaction – clothes maketh the man and when you look good, people respond more positively to you. You stand out more and people will value the fact that you take care in your appearance.

Improves mindset – when you look the part you feel the part. Whether you’re dressing for an important social occasion or business meeting, dressing smartly will keep you focused, create the right impression, and also keep you on your game.

Remembered – the sharper you look the more you will be remembered. This may not be important to you but in some cases, especially interview situations, being remembered for all the right reasons is crucial.

So, as autumn approaches, take a look at your social and business diary and highlight those occasions that deserve some sartorial effort. And if your wardrobe isn’t up to the task, it’s time to invest!

The Savile Row experience brought to your door

The Savile Row experience brought to your door is precisely the bespoke service that you receive from Adrian Barrows – The Bespoke Tailor. Great Britain has always had a proud tradition of tailoring and London’s Savile Row is the most famous tailoring street in the world. Adrian Barrows is a British tailor who not only visits his clients on Savile Row but is prepared to travel across the UK and Europe to deliver his unique tailoring service. “The clients I deal with are extremely busy. They are either busy in the corporate world, celebrities or always on the move. I work to their diary and will travel to a location of their choosing to discuss their requirements – that may be on Savile Row or in the comfort of their own home. Fine tailoring is all
about getting the measurements just right – from the shape of the body to the expression of your personality. It’s about getting a fit that perfectly complements your sense of style and that brings out your individuality. I visit many of my clients in the comfort of their own home where they are more relaxed and able to discuss what they need in more detail. That is the service that I love to bring to my clients.”

With over 20 years in the tailoring industry Adrian Barrows is an award winning tailor who goes that extra mile for his clients. Adrian takes the time to get to know his clients well, what they want to achieve and draws out the true essence of their style. This is then reflected in the suits that he makes; garments that are truly bespoke which are designed for the individual and have their personality woven into them.

British manufactured cloth is the best in the world and with over 5,000 fabrics to choose from Adrian Barrows offers his clients the very best in British fine tailoring, superb choice and a prestigious service that is perfect for the ultra-busy individual.

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Reap the benefits of ‘enclothed cognition’

Do you want to make the right impression?

If you do then try stepping up your wardrobe?

Now before you think that this is something that a Tailor is bound to say I am stating the above from a position of scientific fact. It’s called ‘enclothed cognition’ and no, I haven’t just made that phrase up. It’s a well researched scientific phenomenon.

Enclothed cognition is how people perceive and react to you based on what you’re wearing. For example, a medical practitioner will wear a white lab coat for a reason. The reason is because it displays professionalism, scientific know-how and creates trust. When we see a doctor who is in a white uniform we immediately feel more secure and we believe we are going to be in safe hands.

There are lots of symbolic meanings to different types of clothes – uniforms or otherwise. The robes of a judge signify justice, the robes of a priest signify faith, the lycra of an athlete or cyclist signifies fitness and speed and you will not be surprised to hear me say that the cut of a tailor-made suit signifies power and importance!

When you put on a suit you think, feel and behave differently. If that suit has been tailored to your body shape then it feels like an extension of you and the status you hold. And it’s not just you who notices it. Others will react differently to you as well.

The clothes you wear undoubtedly exert an influence on the people around you but you have to be comfortable in your own skin to carry it off. If you’re the type of person who feels awkward and uncomfortable in a suit then you probably won’t be able to carry it off because others will see that you feel awkward as well. However, if you’re the type of person who is relatively comfortable getting suited up, then the better the suit is, the more you will raise your game.

So, in summary, if you want to feel the part, then you need to look the part. People still associate power and importance in the workplace as somebody in a suit, shirt and tie. Yes, I know there are notable exceptions like Mark Zuckerberg and Richard Branson who don’t get suited up, but on the whole, if you look at the attire of business people who occupy the top boardrooms across the world, they will be dressed in designer suits and looking every inch an industry leader.

If you want to reap the benefits of ‘enclothed cognition’ then it might be time you consulted your tailor!