The Bespoke Tailor logo

Origins Of Style – The History Of The Shooting Jacket

A shooting jacket is an item of practical rural attire specifically designed for hunting and other shooting sports, such as clay pigeon shooting. As well as oversized front pockets that allow for the carrying of cartridges and other gun-related paraphernalia, the shooting jacket also has special cuts at the shoulder to allow for easier movement and the ability to lift a gun high to shoot high-flying targets. Many shooting jackets are also waterproof with a breathable liner to cope with adverse weather conditions, and many also have concealed zips to avoid the sctratching of the gun. The Theory of the Duke As for the origins of the shooting jacket, the most commonly cited theory holds that the style was originally invented in the mid-to-late 19th century (sometime in the 1860s to be slightly more precise) by one Henry Fitzalan-Howard, who just happened to be the 15th Duke of Norfolk. Hence one of the jacket’s alternative monikers, the Norfolk jacket. Having been conceived by the duke, the jacket is then said to have been popularised in the 1880s by the then Prince of Wales, who was later to become King Edward VII. As royal fashion was in those days commonly revered and imitated, Edward VII also made the Homburg hat a hit. Although this theory sounds reasonable enough, there is not a lot of evidence to support it, and other theories are also in existence. The Theory of the Earl Another theory holds that the Earl of Leicester, one Thomas William Coke, was more likely the first to wear this famous hunting garment as he gadded about his 43,000 acre Norfolk estate, killing things. Coke was well-known for entertaining England’s nobility at his country pile in the 1820s, where they hunted partridge, pheasants, and doubtless, anything else that wandered into view. The Earl and his posh pals, including the then Prince of Wales and future king, George IV, allegedly adopted the jacket with a wide belt, box pleasts and more spacious patch pockets for the carrying of hunting knickknacks. The belt apparently improved the line of the jacket, as well as keeping out the cold air. Again, there is little solid evidence to support this theory, but it’s not implausible. As far as verifiable facts are concerned, the shooting jacket was definitely worn by the Rifle Corps of the Volunteer Force in 1859 (which rather spoils the first theory). It also appeared in fashion magazines for young boys’ outfits in the same year. We also know for sure that it originated in Norfolk, became popular in 1860s and over the following couple of decades, became increasingly popular with the general public, as rural activities such as fishing and hunting became more widespread. Furthermore, by the 1890s, we know that stylish young men had started wearing it around town, without their gun, because it just looked so damned good.

Booking Form

Make An Appointment

History Of Waistcoat

The History of the Waistcoat

Since 1666, when King Charles II decreed that waistcoats were part of the Englishman’s correct dress, they have been a staple part of the wardrobe ever since.

Double Breasted Suit

Origins of Style – A Brief History of the Pinstripe Suit

The pinstripe suit came into being around the end of the nineteenth century and has been in fashion pretty much ever since. Originally made famous by stylish Brits, the suit would become increasingly popular throughout the globe as men (and later, women too) wanted to project an image of sophistication and class through their choice of suit. Where did the pinstripe come from? As with most sartorial origin stories, there is a degree of controversy over how the pinstripe suit came into existence. In fact, the only thing that everyone is able to agree on is that the pinstripe was definitely an English invention. Beyond that, two schools of thought emerge, one that suggests the iconic suit began life in the world of banking, the other that prefers the notion that it actually became popular after its use in popular sporting activities of the day. The banking theory has it that the pinstripe was a kind of uniform for English Victorian bankers and that the difference in the thickness and distances between stripes was a way of indentifying employees from different banking institutions. The sporting hypothesis sees the pinstripes as evolving out of the striped uniforms worn by men who liked messing about on water. Boating was an extremely popular pursuit in the 19th century, as was banking, so neither theory is unreasonable. The rise of the pinstripe The popularity of pinstripe suits grew rapidly once it had spread across the Atlantic, taking American culture by storm in ’20s, ’30s and ’40s. The suit became the unofficial uniform of the Prohibition era, beloved of the ultra-stylish and anoyone who wanted to stand out from the crowd and make a bold statement. Naturally then it was popular not only with film stars and jazz musicians, but also with gangsters, the most famous of which of course was Al Capone. After Prohibition the suit became even more mainstream when huge stars such as Clark Gable and Cary Grant continued to popularise it. It is said that the pinstripe suit that Clark Gable’ wore in Gone with the Wind influenced the emergence of the flamboyant, flared-trousers, padded-shouldered zoot suit. The modern pinstripe These days the pinstripe is everywhere. It is still a part of mainstream sartorial culture and is one of a myriad of style options available to the modern man, or woman. In fact, the pinstripe has definitely crossed the gender divide and has become a basic component of women’s clothing, particularly in business, where it remains especially popular with both genders.

Booking Form

Make An Appointment

Jacket-8

Origins of Style – The History of the Pocket Square

Many sartorial historians agree that the origins of the pocket square can be traced back to Ancient Greece, where Greeks of a certain class carried a perfumed cloth around with them to ward off evil smells. Others point to the first century AD when Catholic Church officials attached white handkerchiefs to their left arms to signify their devotion. Others still cite historical documents written by courtiers of King Richard II that pinpoint the 14th century monarch as the official inventor of the designed-for-purpose nose-cleaning cloth. However, is this actually what we mean when we think of the term ‘pocket square’? Is there not some difference between a piece of cloth for wiping drippage from the nose and the purely decorative pocket accessory, often stitched in place? There is now, but this was not always the case.

From Handkerchief to Fashion Accessory

The handkerchief became increasingly popular in the 1400s, when it evolved from practical item to fashion accessory, from cheap cotton cloth to fine silk square. They still came in various different shapes and sizes, but they were becoming status symbols and by the 16th and 17th centuries, embroidered silk and fine lace designs were considered highly valuable, even becoming prized family heirlooms. It is generally believed that some conformity was introduced in the 18th century, when Marie Antoinette came to the decision that it was unseemly to have handkerchiefs of varying sizes and so had her husband Louis XVI decree a standard size of 16 square inches.

Changing to Suit the Suit

When the two-piece suit became fashionable in the 19th century, men decided they no longer wanted their handkerchiefs mixing in with a pocketful of grubby coins and what-have-you, so in time it became transferred to the left breast pocket. This style caught on and persisted into the 20th century. Handkerchief folding styles came and went but by now the prevalence of the silk, linen or cotton pocket square, either plain or patterned, had become well-established as a stylish accessory throughout Europe and into America. The invention of the disposable tissue by Kleenex in the 1920s gradually saw the popularity of the handkerchief decline throughout the world, but practical necessity was quickly replaced by stylish necessity and the pocket square as we know it today became a mainstay of the truly fashionable. In the 21st century, pocket squares have enjoyed something of a renaissance and have become as essential accessory for fashionistas, A-list celebs and anyone who really wishes to stand out from the crowd and add a touch of style and elegance to an otherwise ordinary suit.

Booking Form

Make An Appointment

Movie Theatre

Iconic suits from the film industry

Impeccable clothing on male leads on screen is almost as crucial as the characters themselves. Getting it right creates a timeless presence, adding to the authenticity of our heroes. Let The Bespoke Tailor take you on a journey of some of our favourite iconic suits from the film industry. When thinking about tailoring in the movies, James Bond immediately springs to mind. A spy defined by his impeccable taste in almost everything. His effortless style and sophistication leaps from the screen and is emulated by many. Sean Connery waa popular James Bond and in a classic scene from Dr No where he lights a cigarette at the baccarat table, he’s wearing probably one of the nicest dinner suits ever made. A perfect cinematic moment. The Glen plaid check grey suit that Cary Grant wore in the 1959 film North by North west was probably his most famous garment. The weave on the material had a hint of blue to it and Cary’s suit seems to almost change colour during the film. Hitchcock paid close attention to the wardrobe as it was said he didn’t want the film to date. When Cary’s character, Roger is in the field being chased by the crop-sprayer the suit looks to be a very light grey. However, when Roger is standing by the railway carriage in disguise, it almost looks navy. The look may be a little baggier than would be worn today but it’s still slick with its crisp, white shirt and perfectly co-ordinated tie. Classic perfection that still has the power to wow audiences old and new. The eighties did have some stylish moments as we can clearly see in American Gigolo, thanks to Richard Gere and his outfits supplied by Georgio Armani. One of cinema’s most memorable wardrobe scenes is in this film when Richard Gere flicks through his huge range of shirts and blazers. This is undoubtedly where the phrase ‘Armani suits’ became ubiquitous with having style and who better to carry it off than the very sartorial Richard Gere? Did you know that Robert De Niro wore 45 suits in Scorcese’s Las Vegas gangster drama Casino? And all of them were specially made? Rumour has it that the costume budget for this movie alone was around $1 million. I would have liked to been the consultant tailor on that one! Jack Nicholson was mesmerising in the film Chinatown which was set in 1937 Los Angeles. As well as being one of the best dramas of all time, it is also one of the most stylish, as it had a series of fantastic bespoke three-piece suits that were perfectly accessorized with pocket square and tie ensembles. Talent like Nicholson’s had to be complimented with impeccable attention to detail and the very best of fabrics. An amazing cinematic experience from one of the very best. So there you have it, a few of The Bespoke Tailor’s favourite iconic suits from the film industry and the influences are still being felt today.

Booking Form

Make An Appointment

bbc-prom-thumb

What to wear to the BBC Proms

bbc-banner-img The BBC Proms is an eight-week summer season of daily orchestral classical music concerts and other events at the Royal Albert Hall in central London. With over 90 concerts, displaying a variety of music including classical orchestral greats, to opera, jazz, and even electro-dance we’re sure you’ll find something to suit you! From July to September people from all different backgrounds come together to enjoy the music on offer and celebrate the musical talent. The ‘Last Night Celebrations’ are held across four parts of the UK and really bring the party atmosphere to the forefront! Although there is no formal dress code for the BBC Proms many people like to attend in a smart casual attire. Opting for garments that are comfortable will help you enjoy the delights on offer. Although when you hear ‘comfortable’ do not assume this means choosing baggy, laid back garments – you want to ooze confidence and style so choosing tailored items will ensure a perfect fit that complements your body shape. Layering your clothes is a great way to deal with the temperature changes at any proms-related outdoor event, so taking a blazer with you in textured wool will ensure a smart but not too formal look. This versatile jacket will work well with many trouser options. For that smart casual look, a well-tailored pair of chinos are lightweight and canportray a positive impression in any colour. If you’re feeling bold, a light colour will brighten up the outfit. Match these with either a classic Oxford shirt or even a smartpolo shirt but be sure to stick with the basics only – anything more daring will throw the smart casual look you are trying to achieve out the window. Loafers, suede brogues and boat shoes all work well with the smart casual theme. Make sure you choose a design that is comfortable for you – for many of the concerts there is a lot of queuing and standing so be aware! Accessorise your outfit with a belt that matches your shoe colour and a classic watch can always bring an outfit to life. These little touches show that you pay attention to detail. And if you happen to be attending the prestigious Last Night of the Proms, then go formal. A smartly tailored tuxedo will give you all the Pomp and Circumstance you need for the occasion!

Booking Form

Make An Appointment

what-to-wear-boat-race

What to wear to the Boat Race

what-to-wear-boat-race There are many outdoor events to look forward to in spring including The Boat Race on Sunday 27 March 2016 which is fast approaching. So, if you plan to join the crowds along the four-and-a-quarter mile course from Putney to Mortlake to soak up the atmosphere and partake in a riverside drink or two, you need to look good and feel good with high quality, stylish and functional attire. This sporting institution has a casual spectator dress code (straw boater optional), which is more relaxed than the formal Henley Royal Regatta, and incorporates convention as well as what’s on trend. Boating blazers are traditionally single breasted and similar to suit jackets but have a looser cut and made from a strong material so they are robust like a sports jacket. A popular style is brightly coloured stripes, your personality will govern how loud the colour choice, with contrast piping. Pure wool suits don’t keep out the cold, so it’s best to opt for a spun flannel, which is made from wool but is softly woven and brushed to create extra softness so you’re not affected by the cool river breeze The multi-coloured striped blazer with gold buttons is a staple piece to align yourself with the colours of the university you attended or support. But if you prefer to stay neutral, you can’t go wrong with the classical nautical theme such as a double-breasted dark navy blazer with metal buttons. A white cotton shirt will suit any jacket colour. Or pastel shades of pink, yellow or blue match well with navy. Wear without a tie and slightly unbuttoned to adopt the informal style. Once you have chosen your blazer, you need beige, cream or camel-coloured chinos to complete the look. The best option for shoes is a pair of comfortable and sturdy tan or light brown loafers or brogues. Taking into account the usually cold and windy weather conditions, you need prepare for warmth and practicality such as warm layers, a good scarf and possibly waterproofs. Bespoke tailoring offers more fabric choice and a wide range of colours. A tailor-made suit is more hard-wearing and durable than anything you can buy in a shop, and ensures the pattern and cut are individually customised to you for the perfect fit – whether you prefer a classic cut, a relaxed style or the on-trend slim fit.

Booking Form

Make An Appointment

Cowes Week

What to wear to Cowes week

cowes-week-banner Cowes Week is one of the longest-running and prestigious regattas in the world. It is held in Cowes on the Isle of Wight at the beginning of August and hosts 40 daily races, with up to 1,000 boats and 8,000 competitors. Ranging from Olympic and world class professionals to weekend sailors, it is the largest sailing regatta of its kind in the world. The town becomes a hive of activity and entertainment lasts into the early hours of each morning. Around 100,000 visitors are attracted to Cowes by the festival atmosphere of the event so if you’re attending this year, make sure you feel stylish and comfortable at this fantastic occasion. There is no formal dress code for being a spectator at Cowes Week but opting for lightweight fabrics that can be layered can offer versatility that will prove vital when it comes to the British weather. If you are heading to Cowes Yacht Haven or the parade, a more relaxed feel is the order of the day. Both these venues offer food and drink and live music so classic chino trousers and a polo shirt can help you feel comfortable in your surroundings. The parade is waterfront so a jacket maybe needed for late evening to keep the chill at bay. A classic two button sports jacket will keep your look casual but smart. Boat shoes will provide comfortable footwear when venturing around the shops for a bit of retail therapy. Shepards Wharf and Northwood House offer acoustic and jazz acts, a great selection of beers and cocktails and a more relaxed ‘chill out’ style. A tailored white cotton shirt paired with lightweight blue chino trousers bring a look that will ease you from daytime browsing to night time socialising. A navy blazer will give you that subtle nautical look. Brown/tan Deck shoes or loafers are comfortable yet stylish shoes that will complement your look and provide suitable footwear for checking out the town or going aboard the spectator boats. Make sure to accessorise your outfit with sunglasses and a stylish watch. On the final Friday evening be sure to catch the firework display, a fantastic festival atmosphere that is viewed as an integral part of the event – and don’t forget your jacket or blazer….and umbrella. You just can’t trust the British weather!

Booking Form

Make An Appointment