From Handkerchief to Fashion AccessoryThe handkerchief became increasingly popular in the 1400s, when it evolved from practical item to fashion accessory, from cheap cotton cloth to fine silk square. They still came in various different shapes and sizes, but they were becoming status symbols and by the 16th and 17th centuries, embroidered silk and fine lace designs were considered highly valuable, even becoming prized family heirlooms. It is generally believed that some conformity was introduced in the 18th century, when Marie Antoinette came to the decision that it was unseemly to have handkerchiefs of varying sizes and so had her husband Louis XVI decree a standard size of 16 square inches.
Changing to Suit the SuitWhen the two-piece suit became fashionable in the 19th century, men decided they no longer wanted their handkerchiefs mixing in with a pocketful of grubby coins and what-have-you, so in time it became transferred to the left breast pocket. This style caught on and persisted into the 20th century. Handkerchief folding styles came and went but by now the prevalence of the silk, linen or cotton pocket square, either plain or patterned, had become well-established as a stylish accessory throughout Europe and into America. The invention of the disposable tissue by Kleenex in the 1920s gradually saw the popularity of the handkerchief decline throughout the world, but practical necessity was quickly replaced by stylish necessity and the pocket square as we know it today became a mainstay of the truly fashionable. In the 21st century, pocket squares have enjoyed something of a renaissance and have become as essential accessory for fashionistas, A-list celebs and anyone who really wishes to stand out from the crowd and add a touch of style and elegance to an otherwise ordinary suit.
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Hello and welcome to The Bespoke Tailor – The Home Of British Tailoring. Are you looking for a Camo Dinner Jacket? If so, you have come to the right place.
Over the past 2 or 3 years, we have seen a large surge in clients looking to push the boundaries on dinner jackets. Even though evening wear is very traditional, many of the cloth mills have increased their offering of Jacquard designs. Predominant within this selection we see a lot of camouflage or camo dinner jacket fabrics coming through.
The average client goes to 6-10 events a year where black tie is required. Many of those have only the one outfit, which tends to be classic that that can be worn for years to come. If you are looking for a camo dinner jacket, I would suggest this to be the second or even third choice in your wardrobe – the last thing you want is to be known for the jacket!
However, if you looking for something different, then a camo dinner jacket can be a great option.
Being in the tailoring industry now for 25 years, this is the first time I have seen such a garment coming into fashion. However, if you look at street wear, you will see camo featuring heavily in trainers, casual trousers, tshirts, shirts and pullovers. So, I suppose it was only a matter of time!
Camo is a great option. However, never go for a camo dinner suit, only ever the jacket.
Unless you work within an environment where the rules don’t apply – the music industry for example, then understand the following: Black Tie is a uniform.
Camo Dinner Jacket Styling
Many people opt for the Peak lapel on an evening suit. More often than not, this will be made in a black or blue satin too. The width is important and a tailor should always take into account the proportion of the client. On this type of garment, there is no need for a flowerhole.
A very classic evening garment would be “plain back” without any vent at all. This is a rather dated approach though and so I suggest a side vent is a safer approach.
On a camo dinner jacket, given it’s a more youthful idea my suggestion would be to go for a single button jacket.
The fabric does all the talking! The detailing required on this type of garment is minimal. A sharp, slim peak lapel, black satin buttons and black satin covered jetted pockets in all the garment needs.
If you are opting for the satin lapel, understand that the satin goes beyond what you see and comes into the inside of the jacket. For this reason, it is advised to do a black satin lining. I’m a fan of this quality found at our friends at Dugdale Bros. Remember, the quality is key as the lining is the first thing you feel!
A number of cloth mills are now producing this type of jacquard design and we at The Bespoke Tailor pride ourselves in the best. The finest cloth that we have come across is from Huddersfield Fine Worsted which can be found here
Prices range from £949.95 to £1999.95 depending the way in which the garment is made and required detailing.
It’s that time of year again. Christmas jumpers are in abundance, after-work drinks and parties seem never-ending and the jury will be out on who will be the biggest embarrassment at the office Christmas party. Of course, you don’t have to follow the crowd. Christmas and the New Year may be a time when you let your hair down, but it doesn’t mean you should compromise on the fashion stakes. On the contrary. The festive season throws up many events and occassions where looking sartorially elegant is what any discerning male should aim tro achieve. For example:
The office party – don’t wear that suit you’ve been wearing all year. Wear a suit that’s a different colour and cut or combine a tailored jacket with smart jeans and a crisp open-neck white shirt. Office parties tend to be informal affairs so tone-down your outfit and keep it smart casual.
Formal occasion – if you’ve been invited to a black-tie event for New Year’s Eve then make sure you adhere to the black-tie rules. Not dark blue or dark grey. It should be black and pay attention to the detailing – white shirt, matching black trousers, black bow-tie, black socks and black formal shoes.
A smart dinner party – smart casual or suited and booted is the order of the day here. It really depends on how smart the dinner party is. If you’ve opted to go to a very chic Michelin-starred restraurant then I would recommend a tailored suit in a neutral colour such as black, grey or navy and then inject some colour with a silk tie and pocket square. Elegant silver cufflinks and a showpiece watch will complete the look.
Whatever you’re doing this Christmas and New year, have a wonderful time and keep it stylish. Remember, those photos of you on social media never really go away, so make sure that when you’re caught up in a group photo, you can at least be proud of your attire!
There’s something quite satisfying about getting your wardrobe ready for a new season and with winter upon us, it’s time to re-evaluate your garments and see what new additions will enhance your look. First and formost, it has to be your winter coat.
Any man who cares about his winter wardrobe should have a quality winter coat, a rain jacket and something a bit lighter for those days where it hardly feels like winter at all. When it comes to your main winter coat, choose a good quality material and something that will not only fit in with you business wear but will complement your casual wear as well. Generally speaking, a longer, more streamline winter coat will give you a more stylish feel and if you opt for classic dark blues, greys and of course, black, you can’t go wrong. For the more adventurous, then bolder greens or burgundies can give you a strong impact when worn with the appropriate clothing underneath.
As with any winter season, layering is the best way to keep warm but also look elegant. Stylish waistcoats, cashmere jumpers, turtleneck sweaters and a woollen sports jacket are perfect additions to your wardrobe for winter. Opting for various shades of the same colour in your garments can look very smart when done properly and this kind of look works especially well when you’re working with different shades of grey.
Of course, we are also fast entering the Christmas season so a few garments to see you through the endless round of parties and get-togethers will be needed. Tailored woollen jackets, crisp white shirts, silk ties and pocket squares will always serve you well and for more casual events, then a pair of smart dark blue jeans worn with a lightweight tweed jacket or blazer will give you an elegant and sophisticated look.
Whatever your plans are for this winter, make sure that your wardrobe is up to the challenge, both on a practical and sartorial front.
The Evolution Of The Black TieAs the twentieth century progressed, dinner jackets and black bow ties became less associated with regular evening wear and more associated with the special events that came to be characterised by the tie that was an intrinsic part of the uniform. In turn, “black tie events” became associated with glamorous events and people, and so in time they became synonymous with Hollywood and the glitz of the film industry. Amongst its most famous advocates were Charlie Chaplin, Humphrey Bogart, Frank Sinatra, Fred Astaire and Dean Martin. As time went on and the black tie lost some of its formality, other colours and designs began to creep in, but the bow tie was always a symbol of class and refinement. It would also later come to be strongly associuated with intelligence, as various famous intellectuals, politicians and scientists began to favour it, including Winston Churchill, Franklin Roosevelt, Saul Bellow and Arthur Schlesinger. In the decades after the end of the Second World War, black tie events have become increasingly less rigid in their protocol and today quite a lot of cariation is permitted. However, it’s still important to realise that black is very much used as a gentleman’s uniform. It is the beautiful dresses of the females at a black tie event that take centre stage in terms of colour and overall splendour. The male’s “uniform” should never over-shadow this. It would be ungentlemanly to do so.
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It was recently reported that the RBS Six Nations is the most well attended of all the sporting events across the world. Average attendances at the Six Nations is even higher than the football World Cup and the European Championships. If you’re lucky enough to be going to one or more of the matches, then getting kitted out with an appropriate outfit should be on your agenda. In fact, if you love sport, then we’re entering into a pretty action-packed part of the sporting calendar. In addition to the Six Nations, we have the much-anticipated Cheltenham Festival and hot on the heels of that we have the Grand National. So, if sport is your thing, and you’re going to be attending any of these events, you need to dress accordingly.
At events like Royal Ascot and the Epsom Derby, there are strict dress codes if you want to mix in certain enclosures but for Rugby and for Cheltenham, the overall theme is much more informal and relaxed.
Smart casual is perfectly fine for these events but clearly, interpretation of ‘smart casual’ can differ dramatically. To look sartorially elegant at a sporting event then a casual jacket or blazer, matching waistcoat and smart jeans, cords or chinos will help you to look the part. A collared shirt and woollen tie complement the outfit and if you want to adapt a country gentleman look, then you can’t go wrong with tweed worn with a pair of smart brogues or Oxford shoes.
Of course, having a well-tailored overcoat completes the look so something in grey or brown will look smart. Earthly tones such as green, brown, grey, and dark-checks are perfect for outdoor sporting events and these can be combined with bold cashmere scarves and silk handkerchiefs to inject some colour into your outfit.
Layering different tones in your ties, waistcoats, scarves, sweaters and overcoats is also a good look and will give you a stylish appearance.
After the sporting event, there is usually the socialising that takes place afterwards so it makes sense to plan your sporting wardrobe with this in mind. Choose outfits that can easily take you through to the after-event drinks and dining. As you can see, there’s so much more to sport than who loses and who wins. Looking dapper is every bit as important!