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Should I choose a double-breasted or single-breasted suit?

While both options look good, the single-breasted option is the most common and has buttons down one side and button holes on the opposite side that meet in the middle when closed.

The double-breasted version has sets of buttons on each side and the left side folds over the right and is fastened by one or two of the buttons.

A single-breasted jacket or blazer is the staple of most men’s wardrobes however, a double-breasted version can look fantastic. When fitted correctly, a double-breasted jacket oozes sophistication and style but will require extra time and effort to get the look just right. What outfit doesn’t look striking with extra attention to detail and fine tailoring? A custom made double-breasted jacket will look elegant, like a second skin, and it will accentuate your assets whilst disguising any flaws.

The double-breasted jacket always has peak lapels, completing the superior look. The original design has six buttons, two of which close.

This classic look is perfect for tall men. If you are short in height, a four- or six-button combination where only the bottom one closes is a better choice for you. The four-button double-breasted variety is sometimes known as the ‘Kent’ after its supposed creator, the Duke of Kent. Carefully chosen fabrics and colours will complete your masculine, powerful look.

So when should you wear your statement piece? It’s probably not for every day use, unless you’re in the movies or always on the red carpet! Perhaps wear it on those occasions where you just have to stand out, like a wedding or other special event. Choose only the best fabrics and the finished product will make you look like you mean business!

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Iconic suits from the film industry

Impeccable clothing on male leads on screen is almost as crucial as the characters themselves. Getting it right creates a timeless presence, adding to the authenticity of our heroes. Let The Bespoke Tailor take you on a journey of some of our favourite iconic suits from the film industry.

When thinking about tailoring in the movies, James Bond immediately springs to mind. A spy defined by his impeccable taste in almost everything. His effortless style and sophistication leaps from the screen and is emulated by many. Sean Connery waa popular James Bond and in a classic scene from Dr No where he lights a cigarette at the baccarat table, he’s wearing probably one of the nicest dinner suits ever made. A perfect cinematic moment.

The Glen plaid check grey suit that Cary Grant wore in the 1959 film North by North west was probably his most famous garment. The weave on the material had a hint of blue to it and Cary’s suit seems to almost change colour during the film. Hitchcock paid close attention to the wardrobe as it was said he didn’t want the film to date.

When Cary’s character, Roger is in the field being chased by the crop-sprayer the suit looks to be a very light grey. However, when Roger is standing by the railway carriage in disguise, it almost looks navy. The look may be a little baggier than would be worn today but it’s still slick with its crisp, white shirt and perfectly co-ordinated tie. Classic perfection that still has the power to wow audiences old and new.

The eighties did have some stylish moments as we can clearly see in American Gigolo, thanks to Richard Gere and his outfits supplied by Georgio Armani. One of cinema’s most memorable wardrobe scenes is in this film when Richard Gere flicks through his huge range of shirts and blazers. This is undoubtedly where the phrase ‘Armani suits’ became ubiquitous with having style and who better to carry it off than the very sartorial Richard Gere?

Did you know that Robert De Niro wore 45 suits in Scorcese’s Las Vegas gangster drama Casino? And all of them were specially made? Rumour has it that the costume budget for this movie alone was around $1 million. I would have liked to been the consultant tailor on that one!

Jack Nicholson was mesmerising in the film Chinatown which was set in 1937 Los Angeles. As well as being one of the best dramas of all time, it is also one of the most stylish, as it had a series of fantastic bespoke three-piece suits that were perfectly accessorized with pocket square and tie ensembles. Talent like Nicholson’s had to be complimented with impeccable attention to detail and the very best of fabrics. An amazing cinematic experience from one of the very best.

So there you have it, a few of The Bespoke Tailor’s favourite iconic suits from the film industry and the influences are still being felt today.

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What to wear to the Boat Race

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There are many outdoor events to look forward to in spring including The Boat Race on Sunday 27 March 2016 which is fast approaching. So, if you plan to join the crowds along the four-and-a-quarter mile course from Putney to Mortlake to soak up the atmosphere and partake in a riverside drink or two, you need to look good and feel good with high quality, stylish and functional attire.

This sporting institution has a casual spectator dress code (straw boater optional), which is more relaxed than the formal Henley Royal Regatta, and incorporates convention as well as what’s on trend.

Boating blazers are traditionally single breasted and similar to suit jackets but have a looser cut and made from a strong material so they are robust like a sports jacket. A popular style is brightly coloured stripes, your personality will govern how loud the colour choice, with contrast piping. Pure wool suits don’t keep out the cold, so it’s best to opt for a spun flannel, which is made from wool but is softly woven and brushed to create extra softness so you’re not affected by the cool river breeze

The multi-coloured striped blazer with gold buttons is a staple piece to align yourself with the colours of the university you attended or support. But if you prefer to stay neutral, you can’t go wrong with the classical nautical theme such as a double-breasted dark navy blazer with metal buttons.

A white cotton shirt will suit any jacket colour. Or pastel shades of pink, yellow or blue match well with navy. Wear without a tie and slightly unbuttoned to adopt the informal style.

Once you have chosen your blazer, you need beige, cream or camel-coloured chinos to complete the look. The best option for shoes is a pair of comfortable and sturdy tan or light brown loafers or brogues.

Taking into account the usually cold and windy weather conditions, you need prepare for warmth and practicality such as warm layers, a good scarf and possibly waterproofs.

Bespoke tailoring offers more fabric choice and a wide range of colours. A tailor-made suit is more hard-wearing and durable than anything you can buy in a shop, and ensures the pattern and cut are individually customised to you for the perfect fit – whether you prefer a classic cut, a relaxed style or the on-trend slim fit.

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Dressing Sartorially for Easter

As we head towards spring, what to wear to look stylish over the Easter break depends on where you’re going and the type of event you’re attending. Here is a guide offering ideas and inspiration to help you dress appropriately whatever the occasion.

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Casual

If you’re going to a friend’s house for dinner, a country club or to a restaurant for lunch, wear an open-necked shirt, polo shirt or lightweight sweater with khakis or chinos. Accessorise with leather shoes and belt. Easter is a good time to wear fun socks and welcome in spring. Pastel argyles in yellow, baby blue or mint are a great way to match your shirt or sweater.

Smart casual

For an office party, happy hour drinks after work or a business luncheon opt for smart trousers, paired with a collared shirt and loafers.

Dressy casual

To attend church, a dinner reservation with family or a last minute invite where smart casual doesn’t apply, wear pleated trousers and a dress shirt with leather loafers, a slip-on shoe or Oxfords. Pair with a blazer or sports coat. 

Evening event

An evening social event, such as a birthday party for a friend or family member, warrants a suit in charcoal or navy with a colourful tie to add a splash of colour. This style ensures you’re on-trend for the spring/summer season. Dark jeans with a sports jacket in navy blue, khaki or brown are an alternative for a more casual venue.

Stylish but not formal

For breakfast, brunch or afternoon tea gathering, or a daytime engagement party, you can opt for a dark suit paired with a French-cuffed crisp white shirt. Again, add some vibrancy with a colourful tie.

Black or white tie

If you’re attending a charity fundraiser, ceremony, wedding or have tickets to the opera, a short or waist-length black tailcoat, black or white bow tie, white dress shirt, (cummerbund optional) and slim tailored trousers fit the bill perfectly.

Black tie with a twist

An alternative to wear to galas, weddings or formal dinners where the emphasis will be on fun rather than formality, incorporate trendy prints on your tie and wear with a dress shirt. Mix fabrics such as a silk blazer to create a formal yet interesting look.

Black tie optional

If the gala, wedding, charity auction or formal dinner is black tie optional, wear a tuxedo if you own one, if not wear a dark suit such as charcoal or black paired with a white dress shirt and a solid coloured tie and pleated trousers. Accessorise your look with a pocket square and cufflinks.

Whatever you’re doing this Easter, don’t be a slouch and dress for the occasion!