Welcome To The Bespoke Tailor – The Home Of British Tailoring. With so many clients enjoying the process of a bespoke tweed jacket, I thought you’d want to know more about the do’s and don’ts.
Bespoke Tweed Jackets are so versatile these days. From the office to the pub, restaurant and even a more formal occasions. In the U.K we have some of the best and well-known tweed mills on the planet. We have the pleasure in dealing with many of the great artisans in the trade. Check out our cloth merchant page.
Recently, a client commissioned me to create a bespoke tweed jacket.
Ian is a good client of mine who is a fan of detail and colour. Tweed is a fantastic choice for those looking for either of these.
There are so many types of tweed and below you will find a selection.
Types Of Tweed
Plain Tweed – Plain Tweeds come in a variety of colours, weaves and weights. These are a great all round bespoke tweed jacket.
Overcheck Twill – This is the tweed that most people will recognise. Most commonly found in green, brown and blue, there is a large “windowpane” check that sits above the main colour. Clients who commission this fabric for a bespoke tweed jacket are more than likely into the country sports.
Houndstooth Tweed – Depending on the size of the “tooth” these can be referred to as DogTooth, HoundsTooth or PuppyTooth. You will often find this pattern in a suiting collection as well as the tweeds. Perfect bespoke tweed jacket for the races!
Herringbone Tweed – The Herringbone refers to the chevron design seen throughout the pattern. Again, you see this in suiting as well as country attire. The pattern is better appreciated in the sunlight as the chevron bounces daylight and creates a luxurious sheen to the garment. This is a great casual suit or bespoke tweed jacket.
Striped Tweed – A Stripe Tweed is found in varying weights and colour options and they feature a strong, prominent vertical stripe throughout the pattern.
Donegal Tweed – Donegals are a personal favourite. These come in many colour options and the unique patterns feature coloured “slubs” coming through in vibrant colours such as reds, yellows and greens.
Bespoke Tweed Jacket Style
A classic “Notch” lapel is advised on a country suit. Hand stitching always adds a touch of detail. The width is important and a tailor should always take into account the proportion of the client. The alternative is a Peak Lapel and most often found on a double breasted suit. You do, however, very often see this on a casual jacket these days.
The rear vent found on the back of the jacket ware invented when we began riding horses. The idea of the side (or double) vent was that is splayed across the back of the horse. I, being an award winning tailor will always advise this to be the best route. We do often see clients who prefer the more modern Centre vent where the aim is to bring the “skirt” into the hips. We are seeing this more often as the jackets are getting shorter.
The traditionalists out there would argue that a single breast 3 button jacket is the ideal. They are not wrong, although a majority of clients would opt for the more elegant 2 button fastening.
If want to add to the detail of your bespoke tweed jacket, the lists are endless. From a storm collar to shooting back. Half belt to football buttons, country attire is where clients have fun with the details. Many clients prefer the softer shoulder line on a bespoke tweed jacket for the more casual approach.
As you can see from the image here of a garment recently made for the horse racing, there are plenty of interesting linings around that allow you bespoke Grand National Outfit to stand out from the crowd!